This blog post was originally posted to my previous site, Mike’s Travel Blog, in April 2023.
AMSTERDAM: The name looms large in the popular imagination, often conjuring up images of a rowdy, libertine city where anything goes. In the TV series, “The Wire”, a rogue police major even creates an arrest-free open-air drug market in Baltimore that becomes known as “Hamsterdam”. But the local government in charge of this medieval port city of canals and bridges–a city that grew rich from trading (and the brutal slavery and colonization that were an integral part of that trade empire) is trying very hard to change that image and to discourage visitors who only come to Amsterdam for drugs, sex, and public intoxication.
There is a media campaign (initially targeting young British Men) that’s literally called “Stay Away”. A new law recently banned smoking marijuana in public spaces during certain hours. (Technically, cannabis has never been legal anywhere in the Netherlands and legal penalties have always been on the books, but those penalties have generally gone unenforced in the Netherlands since 1976, making it one of the first countries in the world to decriminalize the drug. Note that ONLY cannabis products are decriminalized. The possession, use, or sale of hard drugs like cocaine, meth, or heroin are still criminal offenses.) Guided tours of the Red Light District have also recently been banned (although the ladies are hard to miss, as they stand in the red-lighted windows all evening, often less than a block away from major museums, churches, and monuments). There has been talk of even moving the Red Light District to the outskirts of the city, although this does not appear to be in the works any time soon. Brothels must now shut down by 3:00 AM (until recently, it was 6:00 AM) and bars have to close at 2:00 AM, while non-Dutch nationals must exit the bar by 1:00 AM. The Mayor of Amsterdam wants to ban tourists from the city’s “coffee shops” where cannabis products are sold openly and regulated by the government. And perhaps most significantly, the number of tourists that are allowed to come to Amsterdam in a year has been capped at 20 million. This year, the city is expected to reach that cap and we will find out how this law plays out in practice. You see, the Dutch really do value their freedom and the bohemian flair of their capital city, but they also value peace and quiet, which is something they’ve had precious little of in Amsterdam for as long as most people can remember because of their international reputation as a party town– that is, until the pandemic hit. In 2020, the people of Amsterdam finally got to experience what it’s like to have quiet streets in the heart of the city center, and they decided they rather liked it, prompting the city to implement these new laws and policies.
BEAUTY AND CHAOS
However, this is not to say that visitors are unwelcome in Amsterdam. Quite the contrary. When I was there, I was met with warm smiles and friendly greetings everywhere I went. Never once did anyone look at me sideways or seem irritated by my presence. It was honestly one of the friendliest and most welcoming big cities I’ve ever been to, certainly compared to places I’ve lived like NYC and Philly (much as I love both of those cities), or Paris, which I visited later that week. The Dutch just aren’t big on drama–with the exception of one very ornery guy who I watched almost get into a fistfight with a boat tour operator over a parking situation.
The truth is, while their progressive attitude towards criminal law is significant, it’s hardly the only thing that makes Amsterdam special. This city is steeped in history, with stunning architecture, chaotic, winding streets of brick and stone, gorgeous parks and canals, and great museums around every corner. The public transportation system is truly impressive, with sleek trams snaking their way down every street, to say nothing of the Metro, busses, and inter-city trains. But even more ubiquitous are the bicycles. Bicycles are as much a part of the Amsterdam landscape as strip malls are to American suburbs. There are rows and rows of bike racks on nearly every block and most of them are full at any given time. There is car traffic too, but far more often than the honk of a car horn, I would hear the gentle jingle of a bicycle bell warning me to stay out of the way. It’s so easy to get around downtown Amsterdam by bike, on foot, or by public transportation that I honestly don’t understand why they even let cars drive on those tiny medieval roads. The combination of bikes, cars, trams, busses, and pedestrians on such narrow streets and the sheer number of people that are out and about in popular neighborhoods like Jordaan creates a constant state of chaos such that it’s a wonder there aren’t more accidents. Imagine Chinatown in New York City but with one-lane streets, fast-moving trams that can’t divert from their tracks in the middle of the street, and about 50 times as many bikes as you’re likely to see in Lower Manhattan. It’s quite the sight to see, but it can get pretty overwhelming. Of course, not all the streets are busy, and in the early mornings I had some very quiet and pleasant walks along the canals without having to fight my way through traffic.
THE TRIP THAT ALMOST DIDN’T HAPPEN
Normally, I like to take the road less traveled. Many of my most memorable trips took me to “exotic” places most Americans never visit: backpacking through Central America, riding the Trans-Siberian railroad from Lake Baikal, sleeping in a ger on the Mongolian steppes, or witnessing a live volcanic eruption in Iceland. However, for this year’s Spring Break, I wanted to go on an international trip somewhere that would be easy to get around quickly. Somewhere where I could roam through medieval streets, sample delicious food, and travel quickly from country to country on a high speed rail network. So I decided to book a trip from Amsterdam to Paris, via Belgium. (I will post about Belgium and Paris later.)
Because I planned ahead, I hoped my trip would be hassle free. It was not. In fact, it almost ended before it even started. On my way to Dulles International Airport in Virginia, I had a tire blowout, only a few miles from my house. That tire was as flat as a Dutch pancake–and much less tasty! I couldn’t drive it for even a single block. AAA changed my tire, but I couldn’t drive 2 hours on interstate highways with a “donut” tire. Miraculously, my superhero of a sister, Karen, dropped everything to drive me almost an hour and a half to Dulles. Ironically, she lives very close to an airport, but not the one I was flying out of. I made it through security and reached my gate, just as they started boarding. And after all that, my flight wound up being delayed by several hours. Nonetheless, I arrived in Amsterdam, a bit worse for wear but more or less in one piece.
Once I landed, things moved more smoothly. From the airport, I took an express train to the city center, which dropped me off at the beautiful brick central train station. From there, I could have taken a tram to my hotel, but I elected to walk the 15-20 minutes it took to get there. My hotel room was small but comfortable, but getting to it proved to be a bigger challenge than I expected. I’ve stayed at hotels and B&Bs housed in old buildings with no elevator and steep and narrow flights of steps before, but never one as steep as this one! Trying to get my 10 days worth of luggage up those steps almost made me want to give up and head back to the airport. But I persevered and finally got to relax and explore the city.
CHECKING OUT THE NEIGHBORHOOD
My hotel was located in the perfect spot that made it possible for me to see most of the sights on my list in a very short time. To the east was Amsterdam’s historic center (which also includes the Red Light District). Palaces, cathedrals, museums, shops, and restaurants abounded. To the North was the Anne Frank House (which was sold out, due to the limited number of people who can fit into the small attic familiar to anyone who read Anne’s diary), and the launching point for the canal cruise I would take later that afternoon. To the south lie streets lined with restaurants serving food from around the world, some pleasant parks, and the massive Rijksmuseum that I would visit the following morning (as well as the Van Gogh Museum and several other attractions). Leaving my hotel, I walked west, to the picturesque neighborhoods of Jordaan and the Nine Streets (De Negen Straatjes). This area was dotted with canals and bridges and featured beautiful and unique rowhouses, cute boutiques, and top-rated restaurants and cafes. I got some fries from a place that had a line that was two blocks long (no exaggeration) but moved surprisingly fast. They had it down to a science, with uniformed security guards managing the line. You had to know your order before they even let you in the building. Then as soon as you order, you step out and to the side and wait for them to call your name to let you know your fries are ready. It was like the “Soup Nazi” restaurant from Seinfeld, but without the shouting. So did these legendary spuds live up to the hype? Well, they were quite good–much better than most fries I’ve had in the U.S. But in hindsight, they weren’t the best fries in the world. That title could only be claimed by Belgium, the most delicious (or “lekker” as they say in Dutch/Flemish) country I’ve ever had the pleasure of visiting. But more on that subject another day.
After exploring this area for a couple hours, I gradually made my way north to where my pre-booked canal cruise departed. This was a wine and cheese tour, and it was excellent. The guide pointed out a lot of the landmarks and features that we passed and explained the history of this fascinating city. After the canal cruise, I headed back to my hotel. I had been awake for more than 30 hours, having not been able to sleep at all on the overnight flight due to the people around me constantly jostling me or making noises or other disturbances. So in a city that’s famous for its nightlife, I was asleep before the sun went down.
The next morning I enjoyed the complimentary breakfast at my hotel (the croissants were exceptionally good) and checked out the balcony overlooking the street. My hotel even had its own gargoyle!
THE RIJKSMUSEUM
Then it was on to the Rijksmuseum. I had bought my tickets in advance for this museum, choosing it over the extremely popular Van Gogh Museum because of the huge variety of art and historical artifacts it contains. It’s like a slightly smaller (but still massive), significantly less crowded version of the Louvre or the Vatican Museum. There was a special temporary Vermeer exhibit on display, but I didn’t buy tickets for that because I knew I wouldn’t even have time to see everything in the regular collection. That collection includes famous works like Rembrandt’s “The Night Watch” (which is in the process of being restored), Van Gogh’s self portrait, and many others, alongside fascinating historical exhibits about topics like Dutch colonization. I thought they did a pretty good job of acknowledging the Netherlands’ complicity in the Trans Atlantic Slave Trade and the exploitation of colonized people. Even in the main art exhibits in other parts of the museum, there are white signs (as opposed to the gray ones that tell you general information about the paintings or artifacts) highlighting elements of racism, slavery, or colonial exploitation present in the artwork or the life of the artists or subjects. The museum itself is also a work of art, with gorgeous stained glass windows, relief sculpture, and mosaics. Nothing as eye-poppingly gaudy as the Louvre (which I will describe when I post about Paris later), but very nice to look at.
After the Rijksmuseum, I treated myself to a traditional Dutch pancake (much more like a crepe than an American style pancake) with sugar and fresh lemon. I thought it would be a lemon sauce but it was an actual whole lemon on top, sliced in half. Plain lemon juice might not sound like that great of a topping for a pancake, but let me tell you, this was by far the sweetest, juiciest lemon I’ve ever eaten. It’s color was much closer to orange than any lemon I’ve seen in the U.S. It was delicious, as was the rest of the pancake.
WINDMILLS AND WOODEN SHOES
Next, after briefly stopping in the magnificent Basilica of St. Nicholas, I took a break from the city and went on a tour I had prebooked to the village of Zaanse Schans. Zaanse Schans is only a 20 minute drive from Amsterdam but it is worlds apart in character. A tiny, historic hamlet with wooden walls and old-fashioned windmills, Zaanse Schans is home to a number of traditional workshops and cottage industries that offer tours and demonstrations. You could call it a tourist trap in the sense that millions of tourists visit it every year due to its proximity to Amsterdam, but it is a real community with people living in the same homes that their families have lived in for hundreds of years. The whole village is communally owned, with each resident holding a share.
Our first stop in Zaanse Schans was a workshop that makes traditional Dutch clogs (wooden shoes). There’s a wooden shoe museum that explains the history of the unique footwear and the various styles and their significance. Every part of the Netherlands has its own distinctive clog, rather like a coat of arms or local sports team apparel. A lot of Dutch people still wear wooden clogs, but mostly as indoor “house shoes” the way we might wear slippers. Our guide wore a pair for the entire tour and seemed to get around just fine in them. She said they’re a lot more comfortable than they look. I got to watch as a craftsman demonstrated how the shoes are made. He explained that the most traditional method is done entirely by hand but that takes 3 hours per pair, so he used a very interesting machine to shape the wood and hollow it out, and then he carved the toe area and the heel using a non-power hand tool.
Next, we toured a 17th century windmill that’s still in daily operation, grinding local stones into paint. I got to see how the gears worked and then went up to the roof to see the actual sails of the windmill blowing in circles. There was also a great view of the village and the surrounding countryside from up there. After the windmill, we got back in the van and travelled to a nearby dairy farm. They showed us how they make cheese (and fortunately for me they use vegetarian rennet nowadays) and we got to taste a variety of different cheeses and condiments. I bought some milk chocolate that was also made on the premises, and it was very good. It’s easy to be vegetarian in Amsterdam and the surrounding area, but it has to be rough for vegans. The Dutch LOVE themselves some cheese.
THE OLD CHURCH
I got back to the city with just enough time for me to see the Old Church (De Oude Kerk) before it closed for the day. Built in the year 1213, it is the oldest building still standing in Amsterdam. After the Protestant Reformation, this originally Catholic Church became a Calvinist church, which it still is today. Among the locals who frequented this church was the painter, Rembrandt. The ceiling of the church is the largest medieval wooden vault in Europe. Today, the church is also home to a contemporary art gallery. Although it is now a Protestant Church and has been for centuries, Catholics still visit the Oude Kerk once a year to celebrate the “Miracle of Amsterdam” that took place in 1345. According to local lore, in that year a dying man took communion in the church and vomited the Host. When his vomit was thrown into a fire, the Host did not burn and it was proclaimed a miracle. The regurgitated wafer was stored in a chest and installed at the church, but it disappeared some time during the Reformation, which did not look kindly upon holy relicts that Protestants considered to be false idols. Many a man has puked in Amsterdam over the years, but few can claim their vomit as miraculous!
The Old Church also happens to be located in the center of De Wallen, AKA the Red Light District. Without even looking for them, I passed a number of red-lighted buildings with scantily-clad women offering their services. Prostitution is legal in Amsterdam, but only in licensed brothels that are regulated and must follow specific rules. Any tourist or local who disrespects the sex workers will be quickly and sternly rebuked, both by the ladies themselves and by other residents. No-one is allowed to take photos of the women who stand in the windows. And while prostitution is legal, pimping is not. These women are self-employed. They set their own hours, negotiate their own prices and conditions, and retain the right to refuse any potential customer.
After walking northwest for several blocks to a quieter neighborhood, I sat outside and enjoyed a dinner of curry and rice at a nice café, and then made my way back to the hotel. The next morning I checked out and boarded a train to Belgium. In total, I was only in the Netherlands for less than 48 hours, including the day trip to Zaanse Schans, but I had quite the memorable experience in that short time. Amsterdam is an incredible city with many different layers. I’d love to return to the Netherlands one day and check out some other parts of the country, especially the city of Utrecht. Would I return to Amsterdam itself? With a bucket list of other places to visit that’s longer than any human lifetime, I’m not sure whether or not I’ll find the time to go back, but I’m definitely glad I went there at least once, if only for a short while.
In my next blog post, I will describe my adventures in the historic Belgian cities of Bruges, Brussels, and Ghent. It’s a story filled with castles, cathedrals, and the best junk food known to humankind. Until then, enjoy more photos from my trip on my Flickr page. Thanks for reading my blog!
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